It’s interesting that last year a significant percentage of riders threw in the towel at the Kielder 100 because of gear failure. And I know that this is probably stating the obvious, but the more miles we’re clocking up, the more problems we’re coming across with our bikes… the most exciting being Lloyd’s brakes going up in flames on a particularly steep section of singletrack (it was so good we made him do it again!)
Impromptu fires aside, so far I’ve managed to get through:
4 sets of brake pads for the mtb (now there’s a money spinner for the pad co’s… don’t get me started)
1x 53 tooth ring on the road bike
3x chains (2 mtb, 1 road)
1x road tyre (rear)
2x mtb tyres
1x mtb cassette
4x gear cables
1x front mech (mtb)
2x mech hangers (mtb)
So all wear and tear bits really, with the road parts being down to winter months on the rollers, spinning away in the big gears. But still, could a better maintenance regime have helped save some parts/money? Probably! In fact, the quick sums in my head whilst typing this list have taught me a lesson… ouch.
I guess of paramount importance is that we need to make sure that on race day, we’re not forced out by a simple mechanical failure – to think, all the training, undone by a simple breakdown. Our team knowledge of mtb mechanics dates back to about 1998, when there wasn’t much that couldn’t be fixed with a monkey wrench and a hammer, so Al (currently recuperating from a nasty broken foot) has been doing some homework. Read on to find out exactly what ‘them daft wee screws’ on your rear mech do…
When my shiny new bike showed up at my door, my second thought was, “how long can I get-away-with not servicing this thing?” Needless to say, my first thought involved dancing up and down and possibly swearing with joy and disbelief at how cool the new bike was
Anything mechanical needs maintaining. We all know this but only very few of us so-called ‘Bike enthusiasts’, are actually enthusiastic about this side of riding. Countless times I’ve attempted to read maintenance columns in magazines only to get halfway through said article with 100% less ambition to finish it as I had at the start . Basically the reasons for my feelings about this are probably the same as others in the same boat. You buy a bike to ride, maintenance is an afterthought, a second thought.
The more one rides, the more one realises the importance of a little bit of cycle orientated TLC. The last thing you want out on a trail is for your gears to clunk or your brakes to literally set on fire. I had the pleasure of following Lloyd down a steep road not so long ago only to see his rear disc spurt out flames! So, what happened there? No idea. Probably worn pads creating friction. Easy – change the pads. But crikey did that suddenly make me seriously aware of the complexities that are the mountain bike beneath me.
Several times in my many years of riding, myself and friends have had gear slip where the rear mech is not properly lined up and tuned. This is very frustrating as it can lead to your knees smacking the stem. Not to mention wear on the chain and cogs and general irritation. So what we do is stand around the bike, chins in hands staring down at this contraption known as a derailleur. “Anyone got a screwdriver?” Obviously, in our quest for success none of us have a clue but it’s the best ice breaker anyone can summon. As long as we look like we know what we’re doing, thats the main thing. The reason for the screwdriver is to have a ‘good go’ at those 2 screws on the mech. They MUST have something to do with alignment. After 15 minutes of trial and error the gears are marginally better so we soldier on. The fact that I’ve owned a mountain bike for the best part of 20 years and have no idea how a rear mech works, really is funny. My ‘Have a go at the screws’, attitude is my typical primitive, hunter-gatherer, male attitude showing through. What can I say? It’s worked so far! I ride for riding, not so I have a bike to tinker with.
With this Kielder 100 looming, and my ambition to enter some DH races this year, I have decided to get serious about bike maintenance. I want my gears to be split second accurate. I want my breaks to work perfectly and I want my suspension tuned to my weight. It turns out that our little screws on the rear mech are called ‘Limit screws’.
Extract from Park Tools Website:
“Derailleur pulleys are limited in both inward and outward motions by using the derailleur limit screws. Properly set, the derailleur will shift to both the extreme outward sprocket (the smallest in size) and the extreme innermost sprocket (the largest in size). The limit screws do not control the derailleur on the sprockets between the two extremes. These are set using the barrel adjuster and tension on the inner wire. The limit screws are usually marked “H” and “L”. The “H” controls the outer most limit of the derailleur, and the “L” controls the inner most limit.”
So there you have it. Messing with the limit screws all these years is NOT fully what I should have been doing. I am now finding it very interesting as I age, to get into the nitty gritty of the workings of a bike. The fact that the Kielder 100 is on the horizon has absolutely nothing to do with it…. Honestly….
I really like the style of your writing. I'm an aspired mtb writer.. Looking forward to some more of your ...